One woman. One horse. 48 states for Domestic Violence Awareness

Check back often for the latest updates and stories from Meredith and Apollo as they journey 10,000 miles on a four year ride around the USA.






Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts

Watch my new YouTube channel!



I am excited to announce the launch of my newest social media project - a YouTube channel devoted entirely to the food I try during my travels (and also some good stuff around home during winter break).  The channel is called “Detour for Donuts” - search for it in YouTube or follow this link to see my first video about the exciting breakfast food called a Wamelet.  

A Modern Dilemma for Horse Travel

Apollo and Meredith in Tigard OR, February 2017. 
Photo courtesy of Wilma Perez-Leon

In Rinker Buck’s excellent memoir about his epic journey along the Oregon Trail by covered wagon, he lamented the modern state of horse equipment for long distance travel.  Though he sought to be historically accurate, even restored equipment from the 1860’s (the peak of Trail use) is often not of practical use for the modern traveler.  This is largely due to lack of demand for “real” use, in favor of decorative purposes and light use for local or heavily supported reenactments.

It is simply a fact that very few people travel by horse any more.  Even the rider who spends more than average time in the saddle, such as endurance riders and outfitters, do not demand gear that can withstand thousands of miles. These riders are the closest that can be compared to long riding in terms of what they require in gear (and for other considerations). But there is a big difference between riding a hundred miles in a weekend and then having a week or two off to repair or replace worn items, and riding a hundred miles slowly over a week - often in wilderness or other places where replacing or repairing gear is burdensome if not downright impossible.

In Buck’s case, he started with the base equipment of a restored covered wagon and pup trailer, as well as quality harness and so forth.  Unlike nearly every other person who has “reenacted” the Oregon Trail, he and his brother actually travelled the entire length of it from Missouri to Oregon without a support crew (no truck and trailer following along).  If they broke down from shoddy craftsmanship of brakes or wheels (which they did), they had to fix it themselves or walk as much as a day’s distance away to find help.  Without a support vehicle, they had to also efficiently carry enough water, food and feed, and other supplies to get through the long still-empty stretches of the American West.

Over the course of their journey, they ended up having to reconstruct the brakes and redesign their pup trailer, because the modern “improved” stuff they started with did not hold up to actual long distance use along today’s roads.  They also had a multitude of other little things that broke or just didn’t work as intended, and which they had to improve, improvise, repair or replace as they went.

For my own travels, I have found similar problems with the gear available.  I started out with a combination of endurance, trail and outfitter equipment.  But even the sturdiest of things available needed modifications to actually carry me and all our stuff, and most of it fell apart in some way within the first 500 miles.

For example, the excellent saddle that has carried me this far had several d-rings to attach my packs, but as I learned by the third day they were only screwed in, and in a way that was not able to withstand the force of a spooked bucking horse.  I had to attach them by sewing them onto the leather with artificial sinew to keep them from coming off again (since the screw-holes got fairly well stripped the first time the rings fell off).  In fact, most of my gear had been repaired or strengthened with artificial sinew by the end of the year, because it is exceptionally tough and the thread, plastic, or metallic fasteners various items were made with have already broke.

Another good example is my packs.  I purchased the best quality canvas packs available, made for seasons of trail use.  But after a few hundred miles, all the plastic (yes, plastic) clips to attach them to the saddle had broken, so now I only use metal clips picked up at hardware stores along the way.  The  canvas, too, wore thin by the end of June (only half a year of use!). I added several layers of artificial leather picked up at a Walmart fabric department to slow down the wearing, and so they now look about as good as they did in June.

For those of you reading this that spend a lot of time outdoors, be it for horse activities, backpacking, or what have you, you’re probably thinking “shoulda used leather!”  Indeed that was the way things were made back when they made things to last on a horse-powered journey (whether on horseback or by wagon).  But if you’ve ever used leather for long stretches of time in all sorts of weather, you’ll know that it has many drawbacks, including molding when wet, cracking when cold, etc.  In the conditions I’ve been in, and the limited ability to properly care for that excellent material, I learned early on that leather was not a good idea for my ride.

That is not to say that all of my equipment has been poor quality.  Apollo’s boots, and mine too, have both held up for longer distances than I would have expected.  The saddle itself (apart from attachment points) still looks great.  I have had no problems at all with the bridle, halter, and some other smaller items.  And very few things will need replaced outright this winter  - although my “repair and improvement list” includes almost every item that I carried.

But by the time spring gets here, I’ll be even better equipped in terms of sturdiness than at any point in 2017, thanks to a winter full of gear modifications! 

Thanks, Utah


Utah is a really cool state to explore.  I did very little exploring with Apollo, though, because for him Utah was for convalescing.

We entered the state via truck and trailer, straight from the vet clinic in Wyoming.  Poor guy, I couldn't bring myself to make him pose for the official photo, so he got his half taken through the trailer siding.


The vet had sent us off with a week's worth of additional shots for his respiratory infection, which I got very good at giving to him.  Getting stabbed with a needle twice a day does not make for a happy horse, but he did feel all better by the end of the week.

To make sure that he was truly feeling in top form again, and that he was no longer contagious to whatever horses he would live to next, he got to stay in his own isolated pasture for an additional few weeks.

Meanwhile, I saw a few fun things in Utah.


Vernal, where we were staying, is near Dinosaur National Monument, and is home to the best dinosaur museum I've ever been in.


It's also home to one of the best breweries I've ever tasted, Vernal Brewing Co.


Apollo's time off gave me the opportunity to get started on writing my memoir...


...And for a quick trip home (here I am on one of the several Greyhound buses it took to get there)!

Recipe from the Road: Bear Claw Bread Pudding


One of my favorite aspects of the Centauride is that I have so many opportunities to try new foods.  Whether that is one chef's creative take on an old standard, some regional specialty, or simply a different type of donut, trying new things to eat feeds not just my body but also my not-so-secret foodie passion.  Plus, it's great to shake up my protein bar travel diet with real food!


At a little café on the seaside cliffs of tiny Trinidad, California, I enjoyed a memorable breakfast of bear claw bread pudding.  I like bear claws, I like bread pudding, how could this not be wonderful?! Apollo also had a memorable breakfast of decorative bamboo, when I neglected to tie him on a short enough rope to keep him from reaching the landscaping.  Here we are in front of the bakery:


That was waaaaay back in January, and I still remember how delicious it was.  I've had lots of free time while Apollo's been resting these last few weeks, so what better opportunity to try to recreate that recipe? 

 

Bear Claw Bread Pudding


In a small saucepan, combine:
                2 cups milk
                2 Tbsp butter
                2 tsp vanilla
                ½ cup brown sugar
                Pinch of salt

Stir, over low heat, until the butter is melted.  Remove from heat and set aside.
Once it is cooled to room temperature, whisk it together with:
               4 eggs

Meanwhile, grease a 6 to 8 cup baking dish, and fill it with:
                6 cups bear claw pastries, cut to 2-inch pieces

Pour the custard mixture over the bear claws.  Set aside for one hour to soak.

Heat oven to 350F.  Bake 30 to 45 minutes, or until custard is set but slightly wobbly and edges of the bear claws have browned. 
Allow to cool slightly or to room temperature before serving.

Bye bye, Wyoming


Wyoming was full of surprises.  Mostly not the good kind. 


I had expected Wyoming would be a difficult state for this ride.  Having gone to school not far from the Wyoming border, I have driven quite a lot of the state both for fun and on my drives home for holiday vacations.  I knew going into the state this time how far it is between towns, and even between homes.  And how little water there is to be found in many places.  Or grass.  Or shade, on a sweltering August day. 
 

I rode into the state on the far side of the pass into Jackson Hole, in the Tetons. Maybe not technically in the Teton mountains, but within sight of them.  Maybe at the south edge of that lovely range.  I think.  If it had been clear, I'd know better.


Because that was the problem I actually had with Wyoming.  The smoke was so bad from fires to the north and to the west that I could barely even see the mountains I was standing next to as I went through Star Valley. 

The smoke had been worsening since we had reached Teton Valley, Idaho, a week before.  Every mile south brought worse visibility, and was making Apollo cough harder and more frequently.  By the time I got to the Wyoming border, I was no longer riding him so he didn't have to exercise so hard.  And I was stopping every other day to rest his lungs.  Since he was resting in the smoke though, it didn't seem to do much good.


In fact, only three days into the state, his health deteriorated overnight into a nasty respiratory infection.  I awoke that morning to masses of green goo coming out of his nose.  The closest vet was 10 miles south, so we proceeded to walk very slowly to see her (the pioneer house below was the only "point of interest" we saw in Wyoming)


Dr. Lisa looked him over, took some cultures, and gave him a few rounds of shots.  She kindly allowed us to stay there a couple of days while he got more shots and I worked on finding us a way out of the smoke.


So most of my time in Wyoming was spent giving Apollo around-the-clock care and attention, mostly with encouraging him to eat lots.  I hand-picked his favorite grasses and weeds, mixed up yummy high calorie snacks, and stood with him while he very slowly picked through it all.  Being sick is no fun for horses either.


Meanwhile, Hermes had the run of the hay barn.  He sure loves exploring all these new places!


In the end, I got an offer from a super-wonderful couple in Vernal, Utah to trailer me there.  I was sad to have to skip so much of Wyoming, which for all its expected hazards is a really pretty place (and I never did need to ride in a dry or grass-less area!).  But Apollo's health and safety comes first, and being able to get him south of the smoke zone on short notice was a minor miracle.

 

Aloha, Hawaii!

48 states may be enough for Apollo, but this week I added the 49th to my four year journey!  While not technically part of my ride, since I travelled there sans horse, I had the good luck to be able to spend a few days in Hawaii soaking up some sun.  Meanwhile, Apollo stayed with an extremely nice horsewoman near Seattle, Martha, who deserves more thanks than I can possibly express.

The reason for my side-trip was because one of my best friends was getting married there.  Since the timing coincided with my Seattle break, where I’ve been waiting for the pass trail to clear over the Cascades, I was able to take the time to attend the wedding. 

This was the first time I’ve been to Hawaii, and I must say it exceeded all my expectations.  It is a beautiful state, the beaches are amazing (and I don’t even normally like going to the beach), and the weather was simply perfect.  Oh yeah, and the wedding was nice too!
Arriving in Hawaii - I never did see a Welcome to Hawaii sign to take a selfie with, but this was close enough!

Naturally I had to try as much island food and drinks and I could squeeze into my tummy and schedule

My view for most of the week

The bride with her mom and flower girl

Bride and groom with us friends and family

At the wedding!

 

Rainy Day Musings

Day 10 of the Centauride, and time for a weather report.  Because when you pretty much live outside... strike that, when you DO live outside except when some really nice person lets you stay in their stored RV or spare room, you get to know weather really well.

So in case you haven't heard, we're having record breaking storms in northern California.  And from first hand experience, I can attest that it is really, really wet out.

I'm sure you're used to checking the 10 day forecast. But since this is a blog about what has happened, and I'm not clairvoyant, here's my 10 day hind-cast:

Day 1 of the ride - light showers with periods of drizzle
Day 2 - same. Glad I waterproofed everything.
Day 3 - same, but more rain and less drizzle.  Turns out my waterproofing is not rated for this much water. Except the boots, which are excellent.
Day 4 - same, but more drizzle than rain (improvement!). Got out the poncho, which is also apparently not rated for this much water.  Discarded it at end of day as worthless extra baggage.
Day 5 - Clear! Blue skies! Hooray!
Day 6 - More beautiful blue skies! Most of my gear has dried out!
Day 7 - Torrential rains.  We're taking our weekend break, so staying dry and out of the weather.
Day 8 - More torrential rains.  Flood warnings. Staying out of the storm. Bought better rain gear.
Day 9 - Light rain, but taking a long weekend because...
Day 10 - More torrential rains.  Flood and high wind warnings.  Glad we're not out in it.

Tomorrow the bad weather is supposed to lighten up to a Day1-type level, with the rain clearing in a few days.  I am looking forward to getting back on the road, and hopefully the back roads will not be too much of a mess from storm damage. 

Except for getting all wet on Days 3&4, the ride has gotten off to a pretty good start.  Apollo is learning the ways of the road very quickly, and we're both getting stronger and faster.  We had a few minor equipment problems but I dealt with them on our break - will find out how well I fixed them once we're back on the road but I think it will be much better now.  People are (mostly) awesome, and so are the exercise, the pace of travel, and the slowly changing scenery. 

Here's a few of my favorite photos from the first week on the road:
First night's stop

 Apollo keeps an eye on me through a living room window

Really awesome one lane bridge

Beautiful bike path (and blue sky!)

Love this view of the Sutter Buttes

 

Why I Ride Alone


Since I've now been asked this question at least twice, I guess it qualifies as an "FAQ":

Why am I going to be riding alone, without a rig?


If you also have been wondering this, read on!

Let's Be Practical, Folks


The first and foremost reason for the Centauride being a solo ride is practical:  I don't know anyone loony tunes enough to devote 4 years of their life to this.  And I wouldn't dream of asking anyone even if I thought they were the type.  My goals and dreams are unusual, and I would be shocked if anyone would be willing and able to leave their daily comforts and loved ones behind for so long.

That said, I do welcome day trippers and weekend warriors to ride with me at any time.

Solo Travel is Fun


When I have travelled in the past, with the exception of family vacations, it has been alone.  I've been to six countries and quite a bit of America, and it is always more fun by myself. 

As a solo traveler, I have the luxury to decide what is right for me (and on the ride, for my horse) without having the complications of coordinating with a companion.  I can go at my own speed, make decisions quickly (and always agree with myself!), rest when I need to, etc. Plus I meet more people when I don't rely on my travel companion for, well, companionship.

But What About Safety?


Travel is not safe.  Of course, neither is driving a car, eating dessert, or any number of other things that can be dangerous to your short or long term health but which we all do every day.  Horse travel is less safe than many other methods of travel.  Being a woman and traveling alone has its risks, but not really more than being a woman anywhere has its risks. 

Being a woman traveling alone by horse? Yes, it will likely be dangerous sometimes.  But it would be that way also if I was a man, or if I rode with a group, or had the luxury of a rig to meet up with at the end of the day.

That is not to say that I take my safety (or Apollo's) lightly.  No indeed.  I will be near towns and thus help throughout the route.  Even you, if you follow me here or on twitter or facebook, will know where I am, in case of emergency.  And thanks to Equestrisafe, I will be even more safe on the roads. 

As Helen Keller said, "Life is either a daring adventure or nothing at all."  And I dare to ride alone.

Mission San Diego, the Mother of the Missions

The 21 California missions were the first permanent European settlements to be founded on the West coast, beginning in 1769.  
 

First of the 21 missions and known as the Mother of the Missions, Mission San Diego de Alcala was founded on July 16, 1769 by Blessed Junipero Serra.  It was name for St. Didacus of Alcalá, a fifteenth century Spanish Franciscan.   By the first few months of 1770, food had run low, no permanent buildings were erected, and there had yet to be a single conversion. Four soldiers, eight Catalonian volunteers, one servant, and six Christian Indians from Lower California had died from scurvy since the expedition's arrival; serious consideration was therefore given to abandoning the site and returning to the Baja settlements. It was therefore determined that, if a supply ship did not arrive by March 19 (Saint Joseph's Day), the expedition would be recalled. Father-Presidente Serra, in response, wrote a lengthy letter addressed to Father Francisco Palóu the following day:

Four Fathers, Fr. Juan Crespí, Fr. Fernando Parrón, Fr. Francisco Gómez, and I, are here, ready to found a second mission, if the ships arrive. Should we see that hope and supplies are vanishing, I shall remain here alone with Fr. Juan Crespí and hold out to the very last. May God give us His holy grace. Recommend us to God that so it may be...

Serra feared that if San Diego were abandoned, "...centuries might come and go before the country would again be revisited..." Just before sunset on the 19th, the San Antonio entered the harbor.  The ship had been bound for Monterey to deliver supplies to the expedition waiting there, but had lost one of its anchors and was forced to make port in San Diego.
 
The mission remained at this site for only five years; the water supply was not sufficient for sustaining the crops, the soil was not fertile enough and the American Indians were intimidated by the military. The decision to move the mission six miles east was made by the pastor, Father Luis Jayme (a young Majorcan) and approved by Father President Serra. The new site was close to the San Diego River. Father Jayme had great rapport with the American Indians but still some of the mission Indians became discontented and they incited hundreds of Indians in remote villages to riot. According to Father Palou's report of the incidence, eight hundred American Indians stormed onto the grounds in the middle of the night on November 4th, 1775. They pillaged the mission, burned it to the ground and massacred Father Jayme, who became California's first Christian Martyr.

Father Serra returned to Mission San Diego de Alcala to oversee the rebuilding of the mission. Fearing that would be another raid, the padres rebuilt the mission according to the specifications of an army fort. Reestablishing the mission was a long, difficult process. This mission was always one of the poorest. The land was difficult to till, the water not always plentiful. 1797 was their most successful year: 565 baptisms were performed, 1405 converted to Christianity; the land area encompassed 50,000 acres, harvesting corn, wheat, barley, kidney beans and chickpeas; vineyards produced enough grapes for wine and gardens yielded vegetables. The mission owned 20,000 sheep, 10,000 cattle, and 1250 horses.  Unlike other missions, the neophytes at San Diego continued to reside in traditional villages in part due to food shortages at the mission.

San Diego achieved the reputation early on as site of the region's first public execution, one it may not deserve. On April 6, 1778 four native chiefs of Pámo, one of San Diego's Indian rancherías, were convicted of conspiring to kill Christians and were sentenced to death by José Francisco Ortega, Commandant of the Presidio of San Diego; the four were to be shot on April 11. However, there is some doubt as to whether or not the executions actually took place.

After the United States acquired this area from Mexico, two companies of the artillery occupied the mission beginning in November, 1853. Various companies of artillery and cavalry were at the mission until 1858 or early 1859. They made some repairs and added a second floor to the church. Subsequently, the mission was abandoned for several years. In 1892, the Sisters of Saint Joseph of Carondolet moved onto the mission compound and conducted an American Indian childrens' school for seventeen years.  In 1931, the mission was rebuilt to mirror the 1813 church.  By that time, only the facade was still standing. It was designated as a Minor Basilica in 1976 by Pope Paul VI. The Mission today is an active Catholic Parish in the Diocese of San Diego.
 
A striking 46' campanario (bell wall) on the left side of the church rises above the mission gardens and contains five bells. The largest bell, called Mater Dolorsa, weighs 1,200 pounds. It was cast in San Diego in 1894.  The baptismal font in the museum is original to Mission San Diego. The baptismal font in the church is a replica of the one in which Fr. Junipero Serra was baptized in 1713 in Petra on the island of Majorca.
 
Learn more about the missions and other great places to visit along the coast in “Along the King’s Road: A Guide to Touring the California Missions.” Get your copy here!

Mission San Luis Rey, the King of the Missions

The 21 California missions were the first permanent European settlements to be founded on the West coast, beginning in 1769.  


Founded on June 13, 1798 by Padre Fermín Lasuén, Mission San Luis Rey de Francia (Saint Louis IX, King of France, who led crusades to the Holy Land in the 13th century) was the eighteenth of the Spanish missions established in California. The Mission was led by Father Antonio Peyrí from its founding until secularization.

It is called “the King of the Missions” because it is the largest of all the Alta California missions.  At its prime the Mission San Luis Rey's structures and services compound covered almost 950,400 acres. By 1830, the mission was the largest building in California.  The San Luis Rey Church, completed in 1815, is the only surviving mission church laid out in a cruciform plan. It is 165.5 feet in length and the nave spans 27.5 feet in width by 30 feet in height. A cupola - unique among the California missions - is an octagonal lantern formed of 144 panes of glass. It tops the wooden dome built over the sanctuary in 1829. The first Peruvian Pepper Tree (Schinus molle) in California was planted here in 1830, now iconic, widely planted, and renamed the California Pepper tree in the state.


In 1832 the mission’s total number of animals peaked at 57,380, including 27,500 cattle and 26,100 sheep, dwarfing all other mission herds in size.  San Luis Rey harvasted over 411,000 bushels of grain and produce during the period 1789-1832. Wheat, barley, corn and beans were the primary early crops.  

An early account of life at the Mission was written by one of its Native American converts, Luiseño Pablo Tac, in his work Indian Life and Customs at Mission San Luis Rey: A Record of California Mission Life by Pablo Tac, An Indian Neophyte (written circa 1835 in Rome, later edited and translated in 1958 by Minna Hewes and Gordon Hewes). In his book, Tac lamented the rapid population decline of the Luiseño, of his people:

In Quechla not long ago there were 5,000 souls, with all their neighboring lands. Through a sickness that came to California 2,000 souls died, and 3,000 were left.

The Mission-born, Franciscan-educated Tac noted that his people initially attempted to bar the Spaniards from invading their Southern California lands.

When the foreigners approached, "...the chief stood up...and met them," demanding, "...what are you looking for? Leave our Country!"

Pablo Tac went on to describe the preferential conditions and treatment the padres received:

In the mission of San Luis Rey de Francia the Fernandiño [sic] father is like a king. He has his pages, alcaldes, majordomos, musicians, soldiers, gardens, ranchos, livestock....

In July 1847, U.S. military governor of California Richard Barnes Mason created an Indian sub-agency at Mission San Luis Rey, and his men took charge of the mission property in August, appointing Jesse Hunter from the recently arrived Mormon Battalion as sub-agent. Battalion guide Jean Baptiste Charbonneau, the Native American Shoshone child of Sacagawea who had traveled with the Lewis and Clark Expedition forty years earlier, was appointed by Mason as the Alcalde (Municipal Magistrate) "within the District of San Diego, at or near San Luis Rey" in November 1847. Charbonneau resigned from the post in August, 1848, claiming that "because of his Indian heritage others thought him biased when problems arose between the Indians and the other inhabitants of the district."  The mission was used as an operational base by U.S. soldiers until 1857.

The Mission's religious services restarted in 1893, when two Mexican priests were given permission to restore the Mission as a Franciscan college.  Today, Mission San Luis Rey de Francia is a working mission, cared for by the people who belong to the parish, with ongoing restoration projects. The mission complex functions as a parish church of the Diocese of San Diego as well as a museum and retreat center.

Learn more about the missions and other great places to visit along the coast in “Along the King’s Road: A Guide to Touring the California Missions.” Get a copy now!

Mission San Juan Capistrano, the Jewel of the Missions

The 21 California missions were the first permanent European settlements to be founded on the West coast, beginning in 1769.  


Called the "Jewel of the Missions," Mission San Juan Capistrano was first founded by Father Lasuen, on October 30, 1775, the seventh of twenty-one missions to be founded in Alta California. It was named for Giovanni da Capistrano, a 15th-century theologian and "warrior priest" who resided in the Abruzzo region of Italy.  But just a few weeks after the party of padres and soldiers arrived, they received word of the revolt occurring in San Diego. The founding padres, and soldiers decided to leave San Juan Capistrano, and go back to San Diego to help there. Once things had settled in San Diego, Father Serra personally led a party to re-found Mission San Juan Capistrano on All Saints Day, November 1, 1776.

For over the next 30 years, Mission San Juan Capistrano grew in population, buildings, livestock, and prominence. The Criolla or "Mission grape," was first planted at San Juan Capistrano in 1779; in 1783, the first wine produced in Alta California emerged from the Mission's winery. Both red and white wines (sweet and dry), brandy, and a port-like fortified wine called Angelica were all produced from the Mission grape.  By 1806, Mission San Juan Capistrano had a population of over a 1,000 people, over 10,000 head of cattle, and a completed architectural gem, The Great Stone Church (the only mission chapel building in Alta California not constructed out of adobe).

After 1812, the Mission began to decline. Many factors were involved in the Mission’s decline including the earthquake in December of 1812 which caused the Great Stone Church to collapse, the decline in birth rate, the increasing mortality rate of the population due to disease, and the inability of Spanish government to adequately protect and supply the Missions with needed goods.

On December 14, 1818, the French privateer Hipólito Bouchard, sailing under the flag of the "United Provinces of Rio de la Plata" (Argentina), brought his ships La Argentina and Santa Rosa to within sight of the Mission; aware that Bouchard (today known as "California's only pirate") had recently conducted raids on the settlements at Monterey and Santa Barbara, Comandante Ruíz had sent forth a party of thirty men (under the leadership of a young Spanish lieutenant named Santiago Argüello) to protect the Mission.  "Pirata Buchar" (as he was referred to by the Californios) ordered an assault on the Mission, sending some 140 men and two or three violentos (light howitzer cannon) to take the needed supplies by force. The Mission guards engaged the attackers but were overwhelmed; the marauders looted the Mission warehouses and left minor damage to several Mission buildings in their wake, and reportedly set fire to a few of the outlying straw houses. 

Reinforcements from Santa Barbara and Los Angeles, led by Comandante Guerra from El Presidio Real de Santa Bárbara, arrived the next day to no avail as the ships had already set sail.

By 1821, Mexico won its independence from Spain, which made Alta California a territory of Mexico. Under new governmental direction, the Mission faced continued decline. Soon after the decree of secularization, the land holdings of Mission San Juan Capistrano were divided and sold to 20 prominent California families. In 1845, Governor Pio Pico sold the mission at auction to John Forster, Pico’s brother-in-law, for $710, when it was valued to be worth more than $54,000. For the next 20 years the Mission was a private ranch property of the Forster family.

After the United States gained possession of California, it gave the Mission back to the Catholic Church, which began restoring it. Today, although the Mission is owned by the Catholic Church, it is run by a non-profit organization. This means, Mission San Juan Capistrano does not receive any funding from the Catholic Church, State, or Federal Government for operation or preservation.
 
San Juan Capistrano has the distinction of being home to the oldest building in California still in use, a chapel built in 1782. Known alternately as "Serra's Chapel" and "Father Serra's Church," it is the only extant structure where it has been documented that the padre Junipero Serra celebrated mass.  The reredos and altar of Serra's Chapel are made of cherry wood and covered with gold leaf. They originated in Barcelona, Spain and are about three hundred years old. The altar is adorned with fifty-two angels faces, one for every Sunday of the year.
The arrival of the cliff swallows to the Mission every March 19th is world renowned. Swallows migrate 6,000 miles from Goya, Argentina to San Juan Capistrano in large groups. Some cliff swallow colonies number more than 3,500 nests.  At dawn on St. Joseph’s Day, the little birds arrive and begin rebuilding their mud nests, which are clinging to the ruins of the Great Stone Church of San Juan Capistrano. The arches of the two story, vaulted Great Stone Church were left bare and exposed, as the roof collapsed during the earthquake of 1812.  After the summer spent within the sheltered walls of the Old Mission in San Juan Capistrano, the swallows take flight again on the Day of San Juan, October 23rd.

Learn more about the missions and other great places to visit along the coast in “Along the King’s Road: A Guide to Touring the California Missions.”  Get your copy here.

Mission San Gabriel, Los Angeles' grandfather


The 21 California missions were the first permanent European settlements to be founded on the West coast, beginning in 1769.  


The mission was founded on the Feast of the Birth of Mary, September 8, 1771, as the fourth of the Alta California missions.  San Gabriel Arcángel, named after the Archangel Gabriel and often referred to as the "Godmother of the Pueblo of Los Angeles", was designed by Father Antonio Cruzado, who hailed from Córdoba, Spain. Cruzado gave the building its strong Moorish architectural influence. The capped buttresses and the tall, narrow windows are unique among the missions of the California chain.

Legend has it that the founding expedition was confronted by a large group of native Tongva peoples whose intention was to drive the strangers away. One of the padres laid a painting of "Our Lady of Sorrows" on the ground for all to see, whereupon the natives, designated by the settlers as the Gabrieliños, immediately made peace with the missionaries, because they were so moved by the painting's beauty.  Today the 300-year-old work hangs in front of and slightly to the left of the old high altar and reredos in the Mission's sanctuary.

 
The planned site for the Mission was along the banks of the Río de los Temblores (the River of the Earthquakes—the Santa Ana River). The priests chose an alternate site on a fertile plain located directly alongside the Rio Hondo in the Whittier Narrows.  The site of the Misión Vieja (or "Old Mission") is located near the intersection of San Gabriel Boulevard and Lincoln Avenue in Montebello (known to the natives as Shevaanga). In 1776, a flash flood destroyed much of the crops and ruined the Mission complex, which was subsequently relocated five miles closer to the mountains in present-day San Gabriel (the native settlement of 'Iisanchanga). The Mission is the base from which the pueblo that became the city of Los Angeles was sent.

The 1812 Wrightwood earthquake caused the three-bell campanario, located adjacent to the chapel's east façade, to collapse. A larger, six-bell structure was subsequently constructed at the far end of the capilla. 

 
Over 25,000 baptisms were conducted at San Gabriel between 1771 and 1834, making it the most prolific in the mission chain. In its heyday it furnished food and supplies to settlements and other missions throughout California. Starting with only 128 animals in 1772, the mission herd reached 42,350, primarily cattle (25,000) and sheep (15,000) at its peak in 1829.  Over its active life San Gabriel was far more productive than any other mission in California, harvesting over 353,000 bushels of wheat, barley, corn, beans, peas, lentils and garbanzos (chickpeas).  San Gabriel had the largest vineyard in Spanish California and was the botanical source of many of the vines planted in the other missions.

A majority of the Mission structures fell into ruins after it was secularized in November 1834.  In 1846, what remained of the mission estate was granted to a Messieurs Reid and Workman on the condition that they pay all remaining claims to the mission creditors and support the mission's padres without obstructing community access to the church. The title granted to Reid and Workman was deemed invalid by the U.S. Land Commission in 1855, and the property returned to the Church in 1859. The Mission's chapel functioned as a parish church for the City of San Gabriel from 1862 until 1908, when the Claretian Missionary Fathers came to San Gabriel and began the job of rebuilding and restoring the Mission.

 
The museum has recently been reorganized and expanded,  largely due to the efforts of volunteer docent “Santa John.” Santa John is himself a San Gabriel treasure (as well as a registered “beared Santa”); be sure to talk to him if he is there while you are visiting!

Toots Bier of University of California Riverside Citrus Clonal Protection Program was informed of an old orange tree a few miles from the mission and after DNA testing it was determined it was an original orange tree in California like the ones planted by San Gabriel Mission to start orchards of oranges. Those original orange trees disappeared at the mission grounds for unknown reasons over the years. The current historic trees at the mission were started by Bier, and were planted at the mission in 2006.


 Learn more about the missions and other great places to visit along the coast in “Along the King’s Road: A Guide to Touring the California Missions.”  Get your copy here!